Stéphane Durand
Marseille: A Short Foodie Guide for a Day Outdoors
The city of Marseille abounds in intoxicating landscapes, from the old port to Le Goudes, via the Corniche Kennedy and its many coves into which it's good to dive. For a day that's as sweet as it is delicious, discover some of the best places to enjoy the great outdoors.
Breakfast on the Zephyr breeze
Just a year ago, Zephyr Café opened its doors at the foot of the Opéra. Tested (and re-tested), this establishment has breathed new life into this neighborhood, just a stone's throw from the old port. What do we love about it? The terrace, where you can soak up the sun from 8 a.m. and enjoy a healthy, tasty breakfast, like the Turkish eggs, whose garlic awakens your taste buds without numbing your palate for the rest of the day. On the sweet side, the granola bowl is accompanied by a homemade red fruit compote, while drinks flow freely, from freshly squeezed orange juice to fragrant mocha. The terrace is located in the heart of a pedestrian street, guaranteeing a calm not so easy to find in this city that never sleeps.
Café Zéphyr
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8am to 4pm
57 rue Francis Davso, 13001
Photos with rights reserved
Lunch, boarding Degaby Island
The 17th-century military fort, which can be seen from the Endoume promenade, is unveiling its weapon of mass seduction this year: an ephemeral restaurant and bar open all summer, accessible by boat from the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilization (one of the privileges of being an island). Chef Sébastien Dugast delivers a sunny cuisine, in which snacked octopus goes well with the fish of the day and his homemade aioli, which can almost be eaten with a spoon. While the menu evolves as the sea arrives, the view never changes, offering a 360° panorama of the city of Marseille, from the islands of Frioul to the sea at Maïre. A beautiful escape that concludes with a dip to make the most of the experience.
L'île Degaby
Open Wednesday to Friday evenings only, Saturday lunch and dinner, and Sundays from noon to 3pm.
Photos with fingers reserved.
Goûter, chef Passedat's grand Bain Bain
Gérald Passedat, three-starred chef and Marseillaise icon, is opening his kiosk for sweet and savory treats this summer on the Corniche Kennedy, just off Anse de Maldormé. From Thursday to Sunday, this chic street food corner will delight us with popular recipes twisted in a starry sauce. Pans bagnats, feta salads and finely sourced Provençal tomato and mozzarella sandwiches are served on the (almost flat) rocks of the cove de la fausse monnaie below (easily accessible via a staircase). On the sweet side, ice creams, cakes, cookies and paninis filled with homemade spreads are sure to satisfy any post-dive stomach, and keep you going until dinnertime.
Bain Bain
Open Thursday to Sunday
156 Corniche Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 13007
Photos with rights reserved
Dinner : La Marine des Goudes back in style
Imagine a small port where fishermen still practice traditional techniques, a mini beach paradise affectionately known as the Bay of Monkeys, and a Mediterranean landscape untouched by stratospheric construction: welcome to the village of Les Goudes, located on the outskirts of Marseille, on the edge of the calanques. A local institution since 1899, the marine des Goudes has undergone a rejuvenating treatment under the impetus of the duo paul Langlère and thibault Hillmeyer (who also run the Cécile food club.) Marion Mailaender has designed a marine-inspired decor (including a counter on which the waves can be seen), and the cuisine puts fish at the top of the list. Red mullet, wolffish, girelles and octopus are all on the menu, accompanied by grilled sucrine with anchovies and Sicilian-style eggplant caponata. A gustatory cruise in fine form.
La Marine des Goudes
16 Rue Désiré Pelaprat, 13008, Tel. 04 91 25 28 76 h
Photo credit: @LeoKharfan
A nightcap at Apotek
Back in the center of Marseille, a stone's throw from the Eglise des réformés, take a seat on the confidential terrace of Apotek, a small cocktail bar that has the elegance to remain discreet and not encourage drunkenness. Perfectly measured, the mixological creations of head bartender Nahui reveal precision. And don't be fooled into thinking that these masterpieces are fed by vulgar juices or other dubious compositions, since Nahui makes the infusions, creams and lacto-ferments himself. The menu evolves with the seasons, as spring fruits give way to summer ones, or as inspirations change to reveal veritable taste bombs, such as the Millivanilliloumi (easier to drink than to pronounce, I must admit) made with Suze, verjuice, sparkling water and tangy mousse with vanilla and black lemon-flavored vegetable yogurt. A fitting end to a day that now calls for a well-deserved rest.
L'Apotek
2 rue Consolat, 13001, open Tuesday to Saturday, 3pm to midnight.
Photo credit: @SybilleBerger
